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These choices will be signaled globally to our partners and will not affect browsing data. Before hiring a shower installer near you , be sure to:. Get free estimates. How much does a new shower installation cost? How much will your shower cost? Table of contents [hide] [show]. Get free estimates for your shower installation.
View Pros. Compare local shower replacement costs. Hire a shower installer in your area. Still have questions? Ask a shower installer. Praxton, Albert S. Hicks, Ray F. Russell, Jonathan. Pray, Richard. Thomson, James A. Millions of people ask HomeGuide for cost estimates every year. We track the estimates they get from local companies, then we share those prices with you. For other floors, place a good amount of adhesive onto the floor and place the 2 x 4 on top of the adhesive.
Press firmly into place. Place the next 2 x 4 on top of the already inserted 2 x 4 and press firmly into place. Continue this process until you have built the support up high enough to contact the bottom of the walk-thru insert and trace. Image J. Then connect both side markings across the bottom.
This will give you a straight line to follow when cutting the bottom. Image K. Once you have cut along the bottom and both sides, the cut section will come out as one piece. Image L. Stand on the insert with clean shoes. If it flexes or bows down with your weight, then you can either cut higher on the sides of the insert or add more wood to the support blocks.
Add a liberal amount of adhesive to the wood blocks on each side and on top of the stack of wood resting on the floor. Do not apply adhesive directly to the insert at this time. Push the insert into place. Make sure the insert is fully compressed. Cover the top of the insert with a paper towel and step on it. This prevents any shavings from damaging the surface of the insert. Place a good bead along the upper edges and proceed down the sides.
Now before you come swinging with a sledgehammer, I recommend locating all of the studs if you can, especially on the sidewalls, which will transition from tile to drywall. By being mindful here, you can actually save yourself considerable time because you can eliminate the need for drywall repairs later. Do whatever you have to do to remove the old shower while avoiding damaging anything you want to keep in the new shower installation.
A pry bar and rubber mallet are nice tools to have for this. Go here for full details on how to remove and replace a bathtub. The demo is a quick step and will only take a couple of hours. For your tile shower to look good, the walls need to be flat and plumb perfectly vertical.
Otherwise, your tiles will be wavy and uneven. So the next step is to make sure the walls are flat and plumb and, if not, adjust as needed. To do this, grab a very straight board or flat edge long enough to span each wall. Then, place the flat edge against each wall horizontally to check for high or low spots in the wall. If you find a high spot sticking out past the rest of the wall, draw a minus sign indicating that you need to shave that spot down.
If your walls are uneven or out of plumb, you will really notice it once you install the tile, especially in the corners where two walls meet. Use a planer to remove the high spots that you marked. Then check for flatness again and keep going until you have as close to a perfectly flat wall as you can get. You could use a belt sander here, but a planer will be about ten times as fast.
Removing high spots is actually the easy part. Shimming out low spots is a little more time-consuming. If you find that a stud is sunk back into the wall, there are several ways to fix it. Another way is to simply add shims. Take your time and get the walls as flat and plumb as your patience will allow because this will have a major impact on how professional your job looks when completed.
The key here is to make sure the bathtub is level and supported well along the entire base. For more details, watch my complete step-by-step video on how to replace a bathtub. This will serve as both a waterproof barrier and a rigid backing for the tile to adhere to. Installing the Kerdi-Board is actually pretty easy. You basically measure walls, cut the Kerdi-Board to size using a razor knife and a straight edge, and then screw the Kerdi-Board to the walls using the special screws and washers designed to be used with this product.
Tighten the screws enough so that the washer begins to compress the Kerdi-Board just to the point where it is no longer sticking above the surface. I recommend starting at the bottom of the largest wall first and working upward.
Then move on to the side walls. Install the Kerdi-Board on all surfaces that you plan to tile, including any windows or custom niches, and even on the side of the tub because that tends to see a lot of moisture, and you want it to be waterproof to avoid rot and mold. When installing Kerdi-Board around the bathtub, you want it to sit on top of the tub flange and not overlap it. If you try to overlap it, the wall will bow out at the bottom and look terrible.
When installing the Kerdi-Board on the shower valve wall, you first want to cut the board to fit.
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